Offerings of fragrant incense and flowers with the chanting of verses as pilgrims break coconuts are common practices that appeal to the senses at Hindu temples, and the Ruhunu Maha Kataragama Devalaya is no exception. Located on the outskirts of Yala, this sacred site is dedicated to the Buddhist guardian deity, the Kataragama deviyo, who is also known as Murugan, the god of war in Hinduism.

Legend has it that this temple stands as a testament to the romance between Murugan and an indigenous princess named Valli. As the adopted daughter of a Vedda chief, Valli was devoted to Murugan and desired to become his wife—a fact that was noted by a sage during his travels. The sage conveyed Valli’s dedication to Murugan himself and described her beauty to the god, who instantly fell in love with her.

The story goes that the god then alighted from the heavens and took on the appearance of a handsome Vedda youth before proposing to Valli. The princess refused him several times, after which Murugan enlisted the help of his brother, who transformed into one of Valli’s greatest fears—an elephant. When Valli finally turned to Murugan for protection, he revealed his true form to her and made her his wife.

Historical records have also revealed that King Dutugemunu (161-137 BC) is credited for the restoration of the temple, as he was grateful to Murugan for aiding him in his battle to reclaim his kingdom from the Chola invaders. That being said, the temple’s structure is believed to have existed many years before Dutugemunu’s reign.

Unlike most other Hindu temples, the Kataragama Devalaya is a rather humble structure. The Maha Devale (Great Temple) has four entrances that are guarded by different deities, and the image of Murugan in the form of a lance can be observed at the entrance whereas the interior is adorned with spiritual paintings.

The sanctum of this sacred site, which can only be accessed by its head priests, also contains a yantra—a sacred diagram of geometric shapes that aids in meditation. Very little is known about this relic, as it cannot be viewed by the general public, but the pilgrims who travel here wholeheartedly believe in its existence and loudly profess their devotion to Murugan regardless.

Since the Kataragama Devalaya is a part of the Kataragama Temple Complex, travellers may also stop by the nearby shrines that are dedicated to Ganesh, Shiva, Lakshmi, Saraswati and Vishnu. At the same time, they will witness a gathering of Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims, and the indigenous Vedda community in the complex, as pilgrims of different faiths unite to worship the gods.

The Kataragama Devalaya is best visited either in the early morning or the late evening to avoid the midday heat. Travellers Isle recommends stopping by during the Kataragama Esala Perahera that occurs between July and August. This nighttime procession features fire walkers, whip crackers, drummers and dancers who even commit acts of self-mortification to proclaim their religious devotion.

Atop a rocky outcrop that was once known as the Chiththala Pabbatha (Hill of the Quiet Mind) lies the ancient monastery of Situlpawwa, where Buddhist devotees gather for spiritual reflection in a setting that overlooks the lush greenery of the Yala National Park. With the promise of breathtaking views at the summit, the Situlpawwa Rock Temple stands as a testament to Sri Lanka’s Buddhist heritage, making it a popular tourist attraction.

According to an ancient chronicle titled the Mahavamsa, the many caves of this monastic complex once housed over 12,000 monks in the 1^st century BC, and it is on these sacred grounds that a monk by the name of Tissa was able to reach arhat (sainthood). The surrounding stupas are also historically significant as their construction is credited to several kings including King Kavantissa, who may have built the Maha Situlpawwa stupa in the 2^nd century BC.

Apart from its main stupa, the complex also has a reputation for its display of faded paintings from the Anuradhapura period, all of which depict the life of Lord Buddha and different scenes from Buddhist mythology. Moreover, one of the cave temples in the vicinity contains a majestic 8-metre-long sculpture of the Buddha in a reclining position. Several smaller statues also remain encased in glass, with the tranquility of the entire area evoking a sense of wonder from all visitors.

Additionally, plenty of Buddha statues and image houses are scattered around Situlpawwa along with several stone tablets that contain inscriptions in ancient Sinhalese. While these provide insight into the evolution of the language, they also carry information about the temple’s rich history.

The journey to Situlpawwa involves a short hike to the top, during which travellers must climb both a rocky slope and a steep stairway before arriving at the summit. Due to this, all travellers are advised to wear suitable footwear, and to time their excursion for either the early morning or the late afternoon, since the heat in the region becomes unbearable by midday.

Moreover, Situlpawwa is best experienced with a knowledgeable guide, who will be able to tell you about the structures inside and their significance to Buddhism. As this is a sacred site, all visitors must comply with the temple dress code by covering their bare arms, shoulders and knees to gain entry.

Please keep in mind that you will be asked to remove your footwear before you enter the stupa. Travellers are advised to carry their shoes afterward to avoid having them snatched by the monkeys that roam the complex.

Situated a few metres away from the Kataragama Devalaya is the Kiri Vehera (Milk Stupa)—a sacred site that gets its name from its milky-white hue, and which showcases the coexistence of the island’s Buddhist and Hindu communities. Many devotees travel from afar to offer flowers and light oil lamps for blessings on this holy ground, which forms a part of the 16 sites that were visited by Gautama Buddha.

Historical records have revealed that the stupa was renovated by King Mahasen after Lord Buddha’s visit to the island. The story goes that Mahasen listened to the Buddha’s teachings and entered the first of the four stages of enlightenment, after which he sacrificed all worldly pleasures. The Buddha then provided the king with a lock of his hair and the sword that was used to cut it, which Mahasen proceeded to preserve within the stupa.

While the Kiri Vehera’s features are fewer in number, many are drawn to the statue of Avalokiteshvara, the Bodhisattva of infinite compassion, that marks the entrance of the shrine. This serves as a reminder of the Bodhisattva’s empathy, which prompted him to postpone his Buddhahood until he had helped every earthly being obtain liberation from suffering as well as the cycle of death and rebirth.

Moreover, a tree grown from one of the first saplings of the sacred Bodhi tree at Anuradhapura lies behind the stupa. This too, is venerated by the Buddhist devotees.

Although there is no entrance fee for this religious site, all travellers must comply with the temple dress code by concealing their bare arms, shoulders and knees to access the Kiri Vehera stupa and its surroundings. Travellers Isle recommends visiting this temple in the early morning or the late afternoon to avoid the midday heat.

Touted as one of the prime locations for birdwatching in Sri Lanka, the Bundala National Park extends across 6,200 hectares of lagoons, saltpans and marshes that form a wetland sanctuary for the wildlife. Although it is not as popular as Yala, Bundala is best known for sheltering a variety of endemic and migratory birds, which may be spotted during a jeep safari through its diverse landscapes.

Roughly 200 species of birds are scattered around the park, and some of its popular endemic varieties include painted storks, spot-billed pelicans, jungle fowls, and blue-faced malkohas. On the other hand, the migratory greater flamingos flock in swarms of thousands by December, travelling from the Rann of Kutch that lies between India and Pakistan. Other migratory birds include sandpipers, lesser sand plovers, forest wagtails, black-tailed godwits, and many more.

However, its birdlife is not everything that Bundala has to offer, as it is home to various mammals and reptiles too. Travellers may encounter elephants, spotted deer, toque macaques, porcupines, flying snakes, pythons, and plenty of other critters during their adventure.

Interestingly enough, Bundala is also a site of interest for history buffs, as fossils from the Stone Age have been uncovered within the Pathiraja area of the park. Notably, the layers of soil in this area are between 64,000 to 74,000 years old, and the tools found in the area seem to suggest that it was once a human settlement.

The season for birdwatching in Bundala extends from mid-December to mid-April, as this is when its migratory birds alight from as far as Siberia to experience Sri Lanka’s warmer temperatures. Most travellers opt for a short 4-hour jeep safari, but birdwatching enthusiasts may select a 7-hour tour if they have ample time to spare.

That being said, the best of Bundala’s birdlife is spotted during its early morning safaris, which may be scheduled for as early as 5AM. This marks the time in which most of its birds and mammals come out of hiding and roam in search of food, and visitors may also witness the breathtaking beauty of the sunrise from their jeeps before continuing their expedition.